If you want to buy a Western saddle, visit a store that stocks Cactus saddles. These are hand-crafted and the saddlers have over 150 years of experience behind them. Choose from a range of types. You may be looking for barrel-racing or reining gear. Perhaps you compete in bull-dogging or roping. All these are in stock together with all-purpose saddles.
When buying a new saddle, it is important to purchase one that fits the horse. An ill-fitting saddle will cause saddle sores which can be very slow to heal. Uncomfortable gear makes a horse misbehave. You may think you know the size you want but variations occur with each different make.
A medium/regular tree is usually suitable for a horse with an average wither. Modern-day Quarter horses, most gaited breeds and thoroughbreds will usually fit this model. Horses with a more solid build, a flatter back and more rounded, less defined wither will normally require a wide tree. A draft or extra wide tree is available for draft crosses and purebreds with a very wide, flat wither and back.
The saddle bars should be in contact with the horse's back as much as possible. This spreads the weight over the maximum area. Horses with a very prominent, narrow wither may need extra padding in the hollow area behind the wither. Some horses have extensive muscling behind the shoulder blades and will need a wider tree to accommodate this type of conformation.
Another important factor is the topline. The croup and wither should be level. If the rump is higher, more pressure is put on the withers. Swaybacked horses have a dip in the back. This means the bars touch only at the front and rear. Extra pressure is put on these areas, causing rubbing. Old horses and those in poor condition are likely to need a bridge pad to prevent these problems.
The length of the bars and skirts will vary from horse to horse. Those with a short back will benefit from shorter bars and rounded skirts. Mules often have a very level back. This causes the saddle to rock and most pressure will fall in the middle of the back.
A new saddle should be placed on the back without a blanket. When it is in its right position, it should sit level. You should be able to fit several fingers between the gullet and the wither when the saddle is in place. If a full hand fits in the gullet, the tree is too narrow. If only one finger fits, the tree is too wide.
Ride the horse until he develops a good sweat. On removing the gear there should be no dry areas as these would indicate pressure points. Rubbed or ruffled hair indicates that the saddle is moving about too much. The saddle must be strong enough for the purpose for which it was built. Roping saddles must be able to withstand the pressure of holding a steer. Saddles for gaited horses will sit back off the shoulder. A mule saddle needs straighter bars. Cactus saddles cater for all types of equines.
When buying a new saddle, it is important to purchase one that fits the horse. An ill-fitting saddle will cause saddle sores which can be very slow to heal. Uncomfortable gear makes a horse misbehave. You may think you know the size you want but variations occur with each different make.
A medium/regular tree is usually suitable for a horse with an average wither. Modern-day Quarter horses, most gaited breeds and thoroughbreds will usually fit this model. Horses with a more solid build, a flatter back and more rounded, less defined wither will normally require a wide tree. A draft or extra wide tree is available for draft crosses and purebreds with a very wide, flat wither and back.
The saddle bars should be in contact with the horse's back as much as possible. This spreads the weight over the maximum area. Horses with a very prominent, narrow wither may need extra padding in the hollow area behind the wither. Some horses have extensive muscling behind the shoulder blades and will need a wider tree to accommodate this type of conformation.
Another important factor is the topline. The croup and wither should be level. If the rump is higher, more pressure is put on the withers. Swaybacked horses have a dip in the back. This means the bars touch only at the front and rear. Extra pressure is put on these areas, causing rubbing. Old horses and those in poor condition are likely to need a bridge pad to prevent these problems.
The length of the bars and skirts will vary from horse to horse. Those with a short back will benefit from shorter bars and rounded skirts. Mules often have a very level back. This causes the saddle to rock and most pressure will fall in the middle of the back.
A new saddle should be placed on the back without a blanket. When it is in its right position, it should sit level. You should be able to fit several fingers between the gullet and the wither when the saddle is in place. If a full hand fits in the gullet, the tree is too narrow. If only one finger fits, the tree is too wide.
Ride the horse until he develops a good sweat. On removing the gear there should be no dry areas as these would indicate pressure points. Rubbed or ruffled hair indicates that the saddle is moving about too much. The saddle must be strong enough for the purpose for which it was built. Roping saddles must be able to withstand the pressure of holding a steer. Saddles for gaited horses will sit back off the shoulder. A mule saddle needs straighter bars. Cactus saddles cater for all types of equines.
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